One thing I've noted bleeding the front brake on my '95 is the need to adjust the lever all the way out while you're pumping the master cylinder. I'm not sure why this helped but I believe it has to do with the pick up holes in the master cylinder being at the end of the stroke. And as the rest of the guys say it's a real pain.

P.S If you have a DelOrto carb on that '95 get rid of it and buy a Mikuni. I'm serious, it becomes a whole new bike. Even the fenders seem shinier.

Alan OTP wrote:

> In a message dated 98-04-26 13:02:18 EDT, papazit "at" juno.com writes:
>
> On Sun, 26 Apr 1998 01:22:55 EDT Bulgasbob (Bulgasbob "at" aol.com) writes:
> >Do you have any tricks for bleeding the clutch on a 95 Beta. I can not seem
> >to get pressure started from the master. I have disassemble each part to
> >ensure proper flow of fluid. When the hose is disconnected from the master,
> >fluid will not flow from the fluid tank to the the connection at the top of
> >the hose. As I pump the clutch with the cap off the top I only see very tiny
> >air bubbles about every 10 sets of pumps. Is this normal?
>
> These things can be a pain! Best results I've seen have been to use
> brake bleeding syringes and push fluid from the slave to the master
> cylinder.
> >>
> Chris's recommendation above is the best way to bleed. Just take the cap off
> the master cyl and back bleed it thru from the slave cyl. There isn't a check
> ball in the slave cyl so it pumps right through. Let it overflow at the
> handlebar as much as necessary to get clean fluid. When done, replace the
> cap; spray it down with brake cleaner or contact cleaner and go.
> Later and KYFU,
> Alan, OTP