Date: Tue, 13 Apr 1999 09:22:46 -0400
From: Chris L Johnson 

On Sun, 12 Apr 1998 21:08:39 +0100 "markstrathie"
 writes:
>DEAR CHRIS,
>PLEASE HELP !    I AM NEW TO TRIAL BIKES AND HAVE JUST BOUGHT A FANTIC 
>243 1989 I THINK? .
>WHEN JUST PUTTING AROUND IN 1st OR 2nd GEAR CLIMBING HILLS OR WHAT 
>EVER, I HAVE NO CLUTCH SLIP,
>BUT WHEN GIVEN A BIT OF FIRM THOTTLE MY CLUTCH SLIPS.  CAN I ADJUST IT 
>OR DO I NEED A NEW CLUTCH.
>
>PLEASE HELP MARKSTRATHIE "at" EASYNET.CO.UK

If it is orange and white with conventional fork it is an `89.  If it
does not have a reed valve it is older.  If it has upside down forks it
is `90 or newer.  Does it have a 212cc cylinder, or a 249cc?  If it is
water cooled you probably have a `92 K-Roo or newer.

If your clutch is slipping under heavy load, you likely have:

- The clutch adjustment on the actuating system lacks slack.  

If the hand lever has no slack whether hydraulic or manual, give it some.
 Still slipping? There is a large, slotted cap in the center of the
clutch cover.  Remove it and you will see this adjust nut and screw. 
Loosen the nut and back the screw off 1/2 turn.  re tighten nut and
replace the cap.  Ride it.  If no more slip, that was the problem.  If
the slip persists, put the screw back where it was or better, adjust it
properly.  Proper adjustment is to loosen the nut and back off on the
screw, then turn the screw in till you feel it just hit, then back off
about 1/4 turn.  You need a touch of play to allow the clutch pressure
plate to seat fully.  Make sure when you adjust that the hand lever has
slack.  You also do not want too much play at the motor end of the
adjustment, as you will be robbing yourself of pressure plate lift and
may get clutch drag. 

One reason this adjustment can go off is because the friction plates have
worn so much that the pressure plate now rides farther in and the slack
that was there is gone.  But, aside from abuse like dirty oil and
excessive slipping, clutch plates can last forever. 

- The plates are worn too smooth (or too thin, but again, this is more
rare).

If the above has no effect.  Lay the bike flat on the right side. Remove
the clutch cover and pressure plate, then take out the friction plates. 
Make sure you keep track of the order of assembly.  Just de-glaze the
sintered metal/fiber plates without removing material.  Scratch the metal
plates.  Use a very flat surface and sheets of sand paper, like 200 grit,
and put swirly scratches on the plates.  If the above do not work:

- Buy new plates and perhaps springs too.

People often do the above to feel good, but aside from abuse or poor
design, I've never known a true need to replace clutch parts.  Then
again, all the clutches I've had have worked very well.  If you replace
the clutch parts, readjust the slack, and check it after a while as the
plates will seat in.

If you have a metallic sludge in the bottom end, dump the oil and ride
gently around with 500cc of kerosene or diesel fuel in there for a few
minutes.  Dump and replace with a mix of 250cc of motor oil and 200cc of
Dexron III ATF.

If you have a cable operated clutch, a fresh cable with periodic
lubrication will make a big difference.

Hope this helps you.

Chris Johnson, Director of Engineering
College Park Industries, Inc.
papazit "at" juno.com
www.college-park.com