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Subject: Simplified Wiring From: papazit "at" juno.com (Chris L Johnson) Date: Sun, 7 Dec 1997 10:24:58 -0500
>At 6:18 -0800 12/6/97, Chris L Johnson wrote: Promises, promises. Went to look for my wiring diagram and couldn't find it. Aarg! So instead of faxing the diagram - which costs me - I'll describe how to simplify the wiring on the `96 Section. With some thought, you apply the folowing to other year models or brands. If you aren't sure about what you are doing with another year Fantic or another brand, don't mess up your wires! Here in the US, we have little-to-no need for lights, horn, etc. One exception is night riding, which requires a front light, but I've found little mental flexibility for the concept. Works great to night ride in hot weather country, but try to convince others to do so! Anyway, you can get rid of a lot of junk and complexity on the bike by chucking the lights, horn, voltage regulator for the same, and that insideous, cheapo, handlebar switch unit. Remove the following and save:
Headlight Do not remove the smaller, finned fan voltage regulator/diode unit behind the radiator on the right side. This will leave you with the coil, the fan motor regulator, and the fan switch on the head. I also take off and save everything to do with the odometer, including the sender unit on the swing arm. First, replace with a quality, Japanese, grounded kill button as used by Yamaha or Kawasaki. I prefer the unit Yamaha uses. I bought mine in an after-market store (for about $14). Avoid kill buttons that ground directly into the handlebar (like the horrible OEM unit) and those cheeze Euro units. Run ground wire to the some point on the frame (I used the upper right reed cage screw) and run the kill wire to the far right plug-in on the coil labelled STOP. Mount the kill button between the handlebar clamps. Now all you will have left is the following, simple set of wires coming from the motor to the coil:
(the following 4 plug into the coil) Brown: The ground wire of the coil that comes out of the molded body and goes to the frame Yellow: This is the 12-volt power circuit wire from the magneto (to run any 12V item like a fan or optional light circuit. Note: a light circuit will require reinstallation of the lighting regulator) Please note the wiring diagram labelled "Impianto Elettrico" in the back of the `96 Section manual is wrong. The wiring that came on my Section differed from the diagram, and may possibly represent wiring on the `95. Anyway, the following works for the `96, at least, and is very simple. You have ignition (you don't need to do anything to the ignition setup). You now have a new kill button circuit. All that remains is to wire up the fan. The fan is wire to run when the engine is on. The only thing inturrupting its operation is the heat-regulated fan switch screwed into the head. A yellow power circuit wire comes from the magneto and terminates at a connector near the coil. You need to make a wire extention to go from this connector to the fan switch on the head. Note those nice plastic covered connectors snap apart, and you can solder a wire to the connector for a new wire that looks factory made. I ran mine in a plastic wiring tube along the left frame rail and then over to the switch. The regulator/diode for the fan gets its supply from the fan switch, so it is plugged into the other side of the fan switch. I have a yellow wire coming into the back end of the switch (paragraph above), and a yellow-with-red-stripe wire on the front terminal. That wire goes up to a 4-wire connector that links the regulator/diode with the fan, and the aforementioned fan switch. The 4-wire connector is part of the OEM wiring. If you want to also have lights, you need to tap off the yellow wire connector at the coil area, run a wire to the other regulator, then on to a switch and the lights. Best is a small switch in the headlight plastic carrier, and a handly, quality connector at the steering head area. If you do not want lights, there really is very little to this simplified wiring scheme. Always test your results. Fan should come on when motor gets hot, and shut off when it gets cooler. Run your wires so they can't short or come loose. If things aren't working, check grounding, like where the regulator/diode mounts to the frame. Use a 12V meter to trouble shoot. Yellow wire should be approx 12+V AC when motor is running. Fan switch should close when motor is hot. If you suspect a bad fan switch, fan should work if you bridge the connection at the fan switch. While you are in there, I would also strongly advise you add an additional cover to your coil wire (to the plug) to increase insullation and definitely do not zip tie it to the frame! It will arc and ground out in wet weather. Have fun, sparkies!
Chris (CJ) Johnson
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